Bohol is part of the Central Visayas province, and is inhabited by around 1.3 million persons, it is one of the most popular destination in the Philippines, mostly for the Chocolate Hills and Panglao island, but there's really much more in this island.
Our loop of Bohol took five relaxing days, for 270km, but can be done faster. We reached Bohol from Cebu City with the fast ferry (read our section about ferries for more info) and it cost us 400P in December 2015, slow boat are cheaper but less frequent (some schedules here).
The boat from Cebu and other islands all arrive and sail from the port of Tagbilaran, the chaotic small capital town of Bohol. With around 100.000 inhabitants this is the sole urban area on the Island of Bohol, it has a few supermarket, a fairly big fresh market and a shopping mall, stock here if you're looking for more peculiar goods, not that you can find a lot of stuff here but still better than the rural areas.
The whole tour around Panglao consist in less than 40 flat and pleasant kilometers, though this is a tourist area you will not see many around, most of them live enclosed in their resort, which actually have taken possess of most of the beaches on the island, so don't expect to easily find where to swim here. There's a big public beach in the westernmost tip of the island but water is very shallow here, sand is so white though that it's worth a look.
Here like almost everywhere else in the Philippines, it's amazing to see the creativity people put in their buildings, houses, huts, small shops, food stalls, all so different from each other and mainly made of bamboo and rattan.
Heading south along the coast from Tagbilaran can be stressful for the first 10km or less, where you'll still feel the roar of the homemade tricycles and jeepneys, but after that it really becomes the paradise. The sea is visible most of the time in this first stretch and you can bath to cool yourself down, with low tides it can be slightly difficult though (shoes recommended). We slept here in a very cheap (300P/7$), nice and friendly place called Hilario's. Along this road there's also the interesting Baclayon Church, the oldest in Bohol, made of coral stones, here local youth often meet to train their acrobatic skills on their BMX and skates.
the interiors of Bohol island
You will also pass through the nice and shady man-made Bilar mahogany forest, though this forest seems to have a dark side.
Anda and the way back to Tagbilaran
So we get to the area of Anda, one of the best beach area we ever saw. Also here private resort exploit the beauty, but is not hard to find public beaches that are perfect, crystal-clear water and snow-white sand, often it's possible to swim to private beach, water is so calm here. There's a sort of road that tours around the Anda peninsula in a loop but we didn't did it, there's a short but tough stretch of dirty track with steep parts, we took it easy and went back from the same road. Lazy morons we are.
Reaching the town of Jagna there's a small resort called Paseo del Mar where the very nice Silvio, an Italian expat, owns a dive shop. It's the only place where you can buy snorkel and mask in Bohol, in our experience. Here you can snorkel from the beach but you will need shoes.
Back to Loay, you can chose to go to the interiors, where the Tarsier Sanctuary is (entry fee 50P), between the towns of Corella and Sikatuna. The tarsier is the smallest primate in the world and a very rare creature, but we decided to spent one more night at Hilario's so we didn't went, even though this is a so called sanctuary and the animals are free, it feels to us they must be bothered of all this tourist wanting to take pictures while they sleep (tarsier are nocturnal animals).
So we went back to Tagbilaran and took a boat to the island of Negros.
Of course there's much more in Bohol and this article is based just on our (wonderful) experience on this magic island, if you know some more interesting places or roads to ride please contribute in the comments!